So, I’m going to be honest. I’d never heard of Jerash before I visited Jordan. I would definitely not describe myself as a history buff, but I absolutely adore archaeological ruins.
Jerash is one of the most important Roman sights in the Middle East and one of the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy.
Reading about this ruined city left me astounded. It was a hugely significant settlement back in the day; prime placement on King’s Highway meant that it was incredibly prosperous and had very grand architecture. This made me uneasy on the drive in; all this fascinating history, with gladiators, chariots and beautiful structures was bound to bring the crowds in droves. I’d also read that it was Jordan’s second most popular tourist attraction after Petra. None of this bodes well when you are as anti-tourist as I am.
We did not need to worry. We traveled during the conflict in Israel and Gaza, which limited the visitors to the region. The car park was empty when we arrived early in the morning. The only man present insisted we park our car right up next to the single restaurant on site
The region around Jerash has been inhabited for more than 8000 years, but the city of Jerash itself can be explicitly traced back via Greek Inscriptions to Alexander the Great, around 331 BCE. These inscriptions indicate that the city was called Gerasa, which was in honor of the first inhabitants, Alexander the Great’s retired Macedonian soldiers (Gerasmenos in Greek means aged people, so I’m told).
After the Roman conquest in 64 BCE, many more structures were built, and by the 3rd century, around 20000 people were believed to have resided in the city of Jerash.
The Galilee earthquake around 749 CE marks the initial decline of the ancient city. The city was used as a Crusader garrison in the 12th century, then abandoned, and the entire city was hidden under sand until excavation began in 1925. Half of the ancient city is yet to be excavated.
In the present day, the Roman ruins are surrounded by a modern Middle Eastern city, a beautiful dichotomy.
ARCH OF HADRIAN AND THE HIPPODROME
Once you visit the city, the first sights you run into are the Arch of Hadrian and the Hippodrome.
A VISUAL IMPRESSION: PHOTOGRAPHIC GUIDE TO JERASH, JORDAN
I won’t give you a lot of background behind the sights in this blog, however, this photographic guide of Jerash will give you a visual impression of why Jerash should be part of your trip to Jordan.
HADRIAN'S ARCH
Towering over all who visit, this 21-metre high, intricately decorated arch - also known as the Triumphal Arch - is the gate through which you’ll enter the ancient city. Built-in 129 AD to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian, it was intended to be the city gate of a new southern quarter along the road to Amman - a plan that would soon be abandoned as Jerash’s finances declined.
For this reason, the arch remains a freestanding structure, nearly 500 meters from the Southern Gate and the rest of the city.
THE HIPPODROME
As you make your way toward the South Gate, you will pass the huge hippodrome—an ancient sports field built between the first and third centuries, designed to accommodate up to 15,000 spectators.
You can find the Hippodrome here on Google Maps.
THE OVAL FORUM
After passing through the South Gate, you will reach one of Jerash’s most celebrated sites - the Oval Forum (or Oval Plaza).
Highly regarded for its form (it’s the only oval-shaped plaza in a Classical-era city), it also remains remarkably well-preserved. The many original eight-metre columns have been re-erected, not simply replaced, and the paving stones are the very same that were laid by the Romans.
You can find the Oval Forum here on Google Maps.
THE SOUTH THEATRE
Many consider the South Theatre one of Jerash’s most impressive structures, not least because of the astonishingly large amount of work that has gone into restoring it.
Built around 90AD, this huge two-story structure could seat more than 3,000 spectators and was constructed with an eye on enhanced acoustics. Thus, a single speaker in the center of the orchestra floor could be heard—without shouting—throughout the entire theatre.
You can find the South Theatre here on Google Maps.
Did You Know? Upon entering the South Theatre, you may well encounter a bagpiper or two roaming the internal walls. While this may seem a little out of place (actually, scratch that - we found it downright bizarre), there’s a good reason. Not only does it provide an excellent demonstration of the theatre’s incredible acoustics, but it’s also an example of Jordan’s bagpiper tradition that dates from the period of British colonial rule when, during the process of setting up and training the army, bagpipe bands were also created. Despite the British Mandate ending decades ago, the instrument has remained popular with Jordanian musicians even performing at the Edinburgh Tattoo!
THE CATHEDRAL COMPLEX
While the Romans were originally a polytheistic civilization, by the mid-4th century (the beginning of the Byzantine period), the city of Jerash had aistian population, the growth of which culminated in the building of the ‘Cathedral.’ significant Chr
The first church built in Jerashe's first half of the 5th century atop the Roman Temple of Dionysus (the ornately carved gateway through which you enter the complex itself) was built in th.
You can find the Cathedral here on Google Maps.
CARDO MAXIMUS
Also known as the ‘Colonnaded Street of Jerash’, this wide paved street runs 800 meters from the Oval Forum to the North Gate; an arrow-straight Roman road lined by millennia-old columns and still paved with original stones, it draws a line straight through the heart of the ancient city.
NYMPHAEUM
Once you’ve explored the Cathedral Complex, you’ll continue along the Cardo Maximus to reach the Nymphaeum - a large public fountain and the best preserved in any Classical-era site in Jordan.
Built towards the end of the 2nd century, this elaborate construction was much more beautiful than it perhaps had to be, built with marble, sculpted Corinthian columns, and seven carved lions’ heads from which the water would cascade into a large pink granite basin below.
You can find the Nymphaeum here on Google Maps.
SANCTUARY OF ARTEMIS
Built in the mid to late 2nd century and dedicated to Artemis, the goddess of hunting and fertility (and the daughter of Zeus and Leo), this temple is believed to have been Jerash's largest and most important.
Visitors can enter through the propylaea, a monumental gateway reconstructed in the late 1920s by the Jordanian Department of Antiquities. They then climb the stone staircase to enter the inner temple, the altar terrace, and finally, the temple platform.
Remarkably, eleven of the twelve huge Corinthian columns that rim the temple platform remain standing and are the most impressive feature of the building.
You can find the Sanctuary of Artemis here on Google Maps.
THE NORTH THEATRE
The North Theatre may be significantly smaller than its southern counterpart, but we actually think it’s our favorite.
Even after its third-century extension, the impressive semi-circular structure, which seated just 1,500 people, was likely used for council meetings rather than public performances (a fact supported by the names of council delegates inscribed upon the stone seats) before its destruction during the 749 AD earthquake.
Having undergone painstaking reconstruction in the 1990s, the theatre has been restored to an exceptionally high standard; archeologists are confident that the building that stands today is a true reflection of the Roman creation.
Be sure to head up to the top tier of seating for fantastic views over Jerash, and even ‘tread the boards’ yourself to step back in time on the stage.
You can find the North Theatre here on Google Maps.
(Jerash is the Arabised name) has been inhabited for millennia, with evidence of occupation from as early as 7500 BC. However, it wasn’t until the Romans arrived in 63 BC that this ancient city atop a hill began flourishing, becoming part of the Roman province of Arabia in 106 AD (this province also included Amman and Petra).
Jerash reached its zenith in the late second and early third century, as road connections between the great cities in the east led to trade and taxation, wealth and expansion (both in population and construction); in 129 AD, Emperor Hadrian - yep, he of the UK wall fame - even sojourned here for an entire year.
Alas, as is often the case in this once great metropolis, Jerash began a slow slip into anonymity in the several centuries that followed, as trade routes that had once been so profitable were eschewed for ships that sailed the sea. Invaded by the Persians in 615 AD and conquered by Muslim forces in 636 AD, it was a devastating earthquake in 749 AD that finally consigned the city to the history books for more than 1000 years.
“Archaeology holds all the keys to understanding who we are and where we come from.”